Fire gives you heat, safety from predators & a way to cook food and purify water. You need fire at all times of the year, practice & learn how to start one and how to keep it going!
Here’s some basic fire info that might help you get it going and make it work for you!
- Preparing your fire location
- Got Tinder
- Feather Sticks
- Kindling
- The wood you’ll burn
- Matches, Lighters & Road Flares
- Torches for Fire Starting
- Ferrocerium Rods
- Magnesium Bars
- Fire by Chemical Reactions
- Magnifying Glass
- Flint & Steel
- Fire by Friction
- Fire Pistons
- Other useful info
Preparing your Fire Location
- Site Selection: Choose a spot sheltered from wind, ideally near a natural windbreak like rocks or dense vegetation. Avoid areas under low-hanging branches or near dry grass to prevent uncontrolled spread. Clear a 3-4 foot radius of debris down to bare soil or rock.
- Fire Base: Create a stable, non-flammable base. Use flat rocks or dig a shallow pit (6-12 inches deep) to contain embers. In wet conditions, build a platform of green logs or stones to elevate the fire.
- Safety: Ensure the site is at least one full step (Approx. 1 Meter) from tents or gear. Keep water or loose soil nearby to extinguish the fire if needed.
Tinder
It’s step one in getting a fire going, get it right the first time!
- Tinder – Flash, Solid or Natural Tinder?
- Your Tinder Bundle (Bird’s Nest)
- Making Char & Char Cloth
Got Tinder
- Definition: Tinder is highly flammable material that catches a spark or flame easily to ignite kindling. It should be dry and finely textured.
- Flash Tinder: Like dryer lint, lasts only seconds but might be long enough.
- Solid Fuel: Think about using solid fuel tabs like they sell for BBQ’s.
- Natural Options: Dry grass, pine needles, birch bark, cattail fluff, or inner bark fibers (e.g., cedar). Fatwood (resin-rich pine heartwood) is excellent due to its flammability even when damp.
- Foraged Tips: Look for tinder in dry, elevated areas like under tree overhangs. Test by crushing; it should feel crisp and snap easily.
- Storage: Keep tinder in a waterproof container (e.g., ziplock bag or tin) to ensure it stays dry.
Your Tinder Bundle
- Purpose: A tinder bundle is a compact, fluffy mass designed to catch a spark and sustain a flame long enough to ignite kindling.
- Construction: Gather fine, dry tinder (e.g., grass, bark fibers). Form a loose, airy ball about the size of a grapefruit. Place the finest material in the center, wrapping coarser tinder around it to create a “nest.”
- Technique: When igniting, place the spark or ember in the center of the bundle. Blow gently to feed oxygen and encourage flame growth. Once it catches, transfer it to your kindling structure.
- Pro Tip: Add a small piece of fatwood or char cloth to the center to extend burn time.
Making Char & Char Cloth
Make char for your next fire, not the one you are trying to light. You can use a steel canteen or small cook pot to make char if you need to.
- Natural Char: Charred punk wood (soft, decayed wood) or fungus (e.g., chaga) can serve as natural char. Heat in a low-oxygen environment similarly to char cloth.
- Char Cloth: Cotton fabric (e.g., old t-shirt or denim) charred to create a material that catches sparks easily.
- Process: Cut cotton into 2 inch squares. Place in a metal tin with a small hole in the lid. Heat in a fire until smoke stops (about 15 – 30 minutes), indicating the cloth has charred. Let cool before opening.
- Use: A spark from flint and steel or a Ferro Rod ignites char cloth, which glows and can be transferred to a tinder bundle.
- Storage: Store in a dry, airtight container to maintain effectiveness.
Practice, practice, practice!
Mike
Feather Sticks
- Purpose: Feather sticks are shaved wood curls that increase surface area, making them excellent kindling, especially in damp conditions.
- Creation: Use a knife to shave thin curls along a dry stick (softwoods like pine or cedar work best), leaving curls attached at the base. Aim for 10-20 curls per stick.
- Use: Place feather sticks in or around the tinder bundle. The curls catch fire quickly, transferring flame to larger kindling.
- Tip: Practice shaving technique to create thin, consistent curls without cutting them off.
Kindling
After tinder, the kindling is your next step, it’s just big enough that the tinder will get it burning and then you can start to build your fire from this point on.
- Definition: Small, dry sticks (pencil to finger thickness) that catch fire from tinder and build heat to ignite larger fuel wood.
- Sources: Dead, dry branches (ideally from standing trees, not ground litter, to avoid moisture). Split wood exposes dry inner surfaces.
- Preparation: Collect a bundle of kindling (enough to fill a small bucket). Arrange in a teepee or log cabin structure over the tinder bundle to maximize airflow and flame contact.
- Tip: Gradually increase kindling size as the fire grows to ensure a steady burn.
The Wood you’ll Burn!
- Types: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple) burn longer and hotter, ideal for sustained fires and cooking. Softwoods (e.g., pine, cedar) ignite faster but burn quicker, better for initial fire-building.
- Preparation: Collect dry, dead wood. Split larger logs to expose dry interiors and increase surface area. Size progression: start with kindling, then add finger-sized, wrist-sized, and eventually larger logs.
- Sourcing: Look for “standing dead” trees or fallen branches elevated off the ground. Avoid green (living) wood, as it burns poorly and produces excess smoke.
- Storage: Stack wood in a dry, elevated spot, covered with a tarp if rain is expected.
Matches, Lighters & Road Flares
A less common way to get a fire going these days!
- Matches
- Lighters
- Road Flares
Matches
- Types: Waterproof or windproof (Lifeboat) matches are best for survival. Standard matches require a striker surface.
- Use: Light tinder directly or ignite char cloth. Strike away from your body, shielding the flame from wind.
- Storage: Store in a waterproof case with a striker strip. Add a few cotton balls coated with petroleum jelly as an emergency tinder backup.
- Pros/Cons: Reliable but finite; susceptible to moisture if not protected. Unfortunately, “Strike Anywhere” matches are almost impossible to get now!
Lighters
- Types: Butane lighters (e.g., Bic) or windproof torch lighters are common. Ferro rod lighters combine sparking with fuel.
- Use: Ignite tinder directly. Hold at an angle to avoid burning your fingers and shield from wind.
- Pros/Cons: Easy to use, reusable, but can fail in extreme cold or if fuel runs out. Refillable models are ideal for long-term use.
- Tip: Carry multiple lighters in separate locations for redundancy.
Bic Reach, candle lighters are cheap small and very nice for lighting a fire, get some now!
Road Flares
- Use: Road flares burn hot (around 1,600°F) and long (15-30 minutes), making them effective for igniting damp tinder or kindling.
- Technique: Ignite the flare and hold it to the tinder bundle or kindling pile. Use as a last resort for wet conditions.
- Pros/Cons: Reliable in adverse conditions but bulky, single-use, and potentially hazardous due to chemicals.
- Safety: Store away from heat sources; handle with care to avoid burns or toxic fume inhalation.
Torches for Fire Starting
More than likely this method is one of the best for car camping. It’s just so easy! Get yourself a good torch! Not much beats a good “Auto-Igniting” torch with a small bottle of propane to get a fire started! Best of all the small bottle of propane can probably be used with your camp stove as well.
- Smallest option – Butane Jet Lighters (Torch Lighters), although they don’t seem to be reliable all the time.
- Medium option – Butane Bench torches, better still but almost the size of a small can of food!
- Large option – Propane or Larger Butane torches. Easy to use but huge. Not an option for hiking.
Butane is less useful at extreme cold temperatures, propane is a better choice. Larger butane torches (Like cooks use in restaurants) do make great toast though.
Unregulated torches can only be used in the correct orientation. regulated torches can be used in almost any position so they are preferred.
- Types: Butane or propane torches (e.g., handheld camping torches) provide a focused flame.
- Use: Direct the flame onto tinder or kindling. Ideal for quick ignition in challenging conditions.
- Pros/Cons: Powerful and wind-resistant but require fuel refills and careful handling due to high heat.
Ferrocerium Rods
Ferrocerium rods, often called ferro rods, are a popular fire-starting tool in survival situations due to their reliability and versatility.
Like having 1,000 fires, in your pocket!
Mike
Here’s an overview:
- What is a Ferrocerium Rod?
A ferro rod is a synthetic alloy of iron, cerium, and other rare-earth metals. When scraped with a hard, sharp edge (like a knife or striker), it produces hot sparks reaching temperatures of around 5,500°F (3,000°C), capable of igniting tinder. - How to Use in Survival:
- Prepare Tinder: Collect dry, flammable materials like dry leaves, grass, bark, or char cloth to form a tinder bundle.
- Strike the Rod: Hold the ferro rod close to the tinder. Use a sharp-edged tool (e.g., the back of a knife or included striker) to scrape the rod firmly and quickly. This generates a shower of sparks. I like to position the striker securely then pull the rod backwards.
- Direct Sparks: Aim the sparks at the tinder to ignite it. If using a magnesium block with a ferro rod, you can first shave magnesium flakes into the tinder for a hotter, more sustained ignition.
- Build the Fire: Once the tinder catches, add small kindling and gradually larger fuel to sustain the fire.
- Advantages:
- Weather-Resistant: Ferro rods work in wet, windy, or cold conditions, unlike matches or lighters.
- Durable: A single rod can produce thousands of strikes, making it long-lasting for survival scenarios.
- Compact: Lightweight and easy to carry in a survival kit or pocket.
- No Fuel Needed: Unlike lighters, ferro rods don’t rely on fuel, so they’re always ready to use.
- Tips for Success:
- Practice Technique: Striking requires a firm, controlled motion to produce optimal sparks. Practice to get the angle and pressure right.
- Use Quality Tinder: Dry tinder or materials like fatwood, cotton balls with petroleum jelly, or char cloth improve ignition success.
- Shield from Wind: Protect the tinder and sparks from wind to ensure ignition.
- Pair with Magnesium: Combining a ferro rod with magnesium shavings (if part of a combo tool) creates a hotter flame for tougher conditions.
Ferro rods are a go-to for survivalists because they’re dependable, easy to use with practice, and effective. A ferro rod paired with a magnesium bar is a great addition to your fire making kit!
Magnesium Bars
Magnesium bars are probably the most overlooked items, get one now! Think of it as “Tinder Igniter”.
- Magnesium Fire Starter Tool: Typically, a magnesium fire starter consists of a small block of magnesium with a ferrocerium (ferro) rod attached. The magnesium is shaved into fine flakes, and the ferro rod is struck to create sparks that ignite the shavings.
- How to Use:
- Prepare Tinder: Gather dry, flammable materials like leaves, small twigs, or cotton balls to create a tinder bundle.
- Shave Magnesium: Use a knife or the scraper provided with the tool to shave a small pile (about a quarter-sized amount) of magnesium flakes onto or near your tinder. Magnesium shavings are highly flammable and burn hot (around 5,400°F or 3,000°C), making them ideal for igniting tinder, even in damp conditions.
- Ignite with Sparks: Strike the ferro rod with a sharp edge (like the back of a knife) to produce sparks. Direct these sparks onto the magnesium shavings. The sparks will ignite the shavings, creating a brief but intense flame to light your tinder.
- Build the Fire: Once the tinder catches, add small kindling and gradually larger fuel to sustain the fire.
- Advantages:
- Reliability: Magnesium burns even in wet or windy conditions, unlike matches or lighters.
- Compact and Durable: Magnesium fire starters are lightweight, portable, and don’t rely on fuel, making them ideal for survival kits.
- Long-Lasting: A single magnesium block can provide thousands of fires if used sparingly.
- Tips for Success:
- Practice beforehand to master the technique, as shaving magnesium and striking the ferro rod can take skill.
- Ensure your tinder is dry or use materials like fatwood or char cloth to improve ignition.
- In windy conditions, shield the magnesium shavings and tinder to protect the initial flame.
- I keep a small container of Pre-Shaved magnesium with my fire kit to save time.
Magnesium fire starters are a staple in survival kits because they’re effective in harsh conditions and easy to use with practice.
Fire by Chemical Reactions
A favourite of “Saboteurs”.
Chemical Fire Starting Methods (e.g., Potassium Permanganate)
- Potassium Permanganate: A strong oxidizer that reacts with glycerin or sugar to produce a flame.
- Method: Mix a small pile (1/4 tsp) of potassium permanganate with a few drops of glycerin (or a pinch of sugar). The reaction starts within seconds normally, igniting nearby tinder.
- Pros/Cons: Effective in wet conditions but requires careful storage (airtight containers) and precise mixing. Hazardous if mishandled.
- Other Chemicals: Magnesium shavings or commercial fire starters (e.g., WetFire) burn hot and fast, igniting tinder easily.
- Safety: Wear gloves, avoid inhalation, and store chemicals separately to prevent accidental reactions.
Depending on outside air temperature this method may not work well or as quick as you hope!
Magnifying Glass
Yes! Even a small one can get the tinder burning, that’s all you need.
- Principle: Focus sunlight through a magnifying glass to create a hot spot on tinder, igniting it.
- Technique: Angle the lens to concentrate sunlight into a small, bright dot on dark tinder (e.g., char cloth or punk wood). Hold steady until smoke appears, then blow gently to ignite.
- Pros/Cons: Free, lightweight, and inexhaustible but requires clear sunlight and patience.
- Alternatives: Fresnel lenses or polished metal (e.g., a can bottom) can work similarly.
Flint & Steel
Old timey cowboy fire making skill. haha
- Components: A high-carbon steel striker and flint (or similar hard rock like quartz) create sparks when struck.
- Technique: Strike the steel against the flint to shower sparks onto char cloth or tinder. Place the glowing ember in a tinder bundle and blow to ignite.
- Pros/Cons: Durable and reliable in wet conditions but requires skill and dry tinder. Modern ferrocerium rods are easier to use.
- Tip: Practice striking to produce consistent sparks; angle the flint to direct sparks downward.
I’ve never tried this method, it just hasn’t interested me for some reason?
Fire by Friction
Think like a Native, it’s not as easy as it sounds! I’ve tried this and until this day been unsuccessful, it takes a lot of practice!
- Bow Drill
- Pump Drill
- Hand Drill
- Fire Plow
Fire by friction is a primitive fire-starting technique that generates heat through the friction of two pieces of wood rubbing together, creating an ember that can ignite tinder. It requires practice, proper materials, and technique. The bow drill and pump drill are two popular methods, alongside other techniques like the hand drill and fire plough. Here’s some detail for each method, their components, techniques, and pros/cons.
1. Bow Drill Method
The bow drill is one of the most widely used friction fire methods due to its efficiency and relative ease compared to other techniques. It uses a bow to rapidly rotate a spindle against a fireboard, generating heat to create an ember.
Components
- Spindle: A straight, cylindrical piece of dry, soft wood (e.g., cedar, willow, cottonwood, or poplar), about 8–12 inches long and 0.5–1 inch in diameter, with one end rounded and the other slightly pointed.
- Fireboard: A flat piece of the same soft wood, about 0.5 inches thick, with a shallow depression (dimple) to hold the spindle and a V-shaped notch cut near the dimple to collect wood dust.
- Bow: A curved stick (e.g., ash or hazel), 18–24 inches long, with a cord (e.g., paracord, leather, or natural fiber) loosely strung between the ends to twist around the spindle.
- Bearing Block (Socket): A small, smooth stone, piece of hardwood, or lubricated material (e.g., bone or antler) with a depression to hold the top of the spindle, reducing friction at the top. A “Fidget Spinner” (Child’s Toy) with a bearing in the center works great!
- Tinder: Dry, fluffy material (e.g., dry grass, cattail fluff, or shredded bark) to catch the ember and ignite a flame.
Technique
- Prepare the Fireboard: Carve a shallow dimple in the fireboard and a V-shaped notch next to it, extending to the edge to collect wood dust.
- Set Up the Bow: Wrap the cord around the spindle, ensuring it’s snug but not too tight.
- Position the Spindle: Place the rounded end of the spindle in the fireboard’s dimple. Hold the top of the spindle with the bearing block, applying downward pressure.
- Bow the Spindle: Move the bow back and forth smoothly, spinning the spindle rapidly in the dimple. The friction creates fine wood dust and heat.
- Create an Ember: Continue bowing until the dust in the notch begins to smoke and forms a glowing ember (usually 1–3 minutes with good technique).
- Transfer the Ember: Carefully move the ember to a tinder bundle, gently blow to ignite a flame, and use it to start a fire.
Pros
- More efficient than hand-powered methods due to the bow’s mechanical advantage.
- Works in various environments if dry wood and tinder are available.
- Relatively easy to learn with practice.
Cons
- Requires multiple components (bow, cord, bearing block), which can be cumbersome to prepare in a survival situation.
- Cord can slip or break if not properly tensioned.
- Physically demanding, especially for beginners.
Tips
- Use dry, soft woods for both spindle and fireboard (e.g., yucca, cedar, or basswood).
- Lubricate the bearing block (e.g., with grease or soap) to reduce friction at the top.
- Practice maintaining consistent pressure and speed to avoid tiring out.
2. Pump Drill Method
The pump drill is a less common but effective friction fire method that uses a weighted crossbar and cord system to spin a spindle rapidly. It’s more complex to construct but can be easier on the body than the bow drill for some users.
Components
- Spindle: Similar to the bow drill, a straight, dry, softwood spindle (8–12 inches long, 0.5–1 inch in diameter), with one end rounded for the fireboard and the other attached to the pump mechanism.
- Fireboard: Identical to the bow drill fireboard, with a dimple and V-shaped notch to collect dust.
- Crossbar and Weight: A horizontal crossbar (wood or another material) with a hole in the center for the spindle to pass through. A weight (e.g., a flat stone or wooden disc) is attached to the spindle to add momentum.
- Cord: A strong cord attached to the crossbar and wrapped around the spindle to create rotation when pumped.
- Tinder: Same as bow drill—dry, fluffy material to catch the ember.
Technique
- Assemble the Pump Drill: Attach the spindle to the crossbar, with the cord wrapped around the spindle and secured to the crossbar’s ends. The weight is fixed near the top of the spindle.
- Prepare the Fireboard: Carve a dimple and notch as in the bow drill method.
- Position the Spindle: Place the spindle’s rounded end in the fireboard’s dimple, holding the top of the pump drill with one hand to stabilize it.
- Pump the Crossbar: Push the crossbar down, causing the cord to spin the spindle. As the cord unwinds, the weight’s momentum helps rewind it when you release pressure. Repeat the pumping motion to maintain rapid spinning.
- Create an Ember: The friction between the spindle and fireboard produces hot wood dust, forming an ember in the notch.
- Transfer the Ember: Move the ember to a tinder bundle and blow into a flame.
Pros
- Less physically taxing on arms than the bow drill, as the pumping motion uses body weight.
- The weighted flywheel maintains momentum, reducing effort to keep the spindle spinning.
- Can be used in confined spaces where a bow might be impractical.
Cons
- More complex to construct, requiring a weighted crossbar and precise cord setup.
- Less common in survival scenarios due to the need for specialized components.
- Requires coordination to maintain a steady pumping rhythm.
Tips
- Ensure the weight is balanced to avoid wobbling during pumping.
- Use a longer spindle for better leverage and smoother operation.
- Test the cord tension to ensure it grips the spindle without slipping.
Other Popular Fire by Friction Methods
3. Hand Drill
Unless you have practiced these two methods, you will be unsuccessful!
- Description: The simplest friction fire method, using only a spindle and fireboard. The spindle is spun by rubbing it between the palms while applying downward pressure.
- Components: A thin, straight spindle (12–24 inches long, 0.25–0.5 inches in diameter) and a fireboard with a dimple and notch.
- Technique: Place the spindle in the fireboard’s dimple, spin it by rubbing hands together, and slide hands down repeatedly to maintain rotation. Collect dust and form an ember.
- Pros: Minimal equipment (just spindle and fireboard); lightweight and portable.
- Cons: Extremely physically demanding; requires significant endurance and hand toughness; less efficient than bow or pump drills.
- Best For: Experienced practitioners or situations with limited resources.
4. Fire Plough
- Description: A method where a wooden stick (plough) is rubbed back and forth in a groove on a fireboard to generate heat and dust.
- Components: A fireboard with a long, straight groove and a sturdy, pointed plough stick made of harder wood.
- Technique: Push and pull the plough rapidly along the groove, creating hot wood dust at the end of the groove, which forms an ember.
- Pros: Simple to set up with only two components; works with a variety of woods.
- Cons: Physically exhausting; less efficient than bow or pump drills; requires precise groove depth.
- Best For: Tropical environments where suitable woods (e.g., hibiscus) are abundant.
General Tips for Fire by Friction
- Wood Selection: Use dry, soft woods for spindle and fireboard (e.g., cedar, willow, yucca, or cottonwood). The spindle and fireboard should ideally be the same wood to ensure consistent wear.
- Tinder Preparation: Keep tinder dry and fluffy (e.g., char cloth, cattail fluff, or dry grass). Store in a waterproof container.
- Environment: Work in a dry, wind-sheltered area to protect the ember and tinder bundle.
- Practice: All friction fire methods require skill and stamina. Practice regularly to build muscle memory and confidence.
Challenges of Fire by Friction
- Physical Demand: All methods are labor-intensive and require strength, coordination, and patience.
- Moisture Sensitivity: Wet wood or tinder drastically reduces success rates.
- Skill Level: Advanced! Beginners often fail, making practice essential.
- Time-Intensive: Creating an ember can take minutes, and transferring it to a tinder bundle requires care.
These are the most physically demanding methods of NOT getting a fire going when you need it!
Mike
Fire Pistons
Tinder ignition by compression!
A fire piston is a survival tool used to start a fire by rapidly compressing air to ignite tinder. It’s a simple, portable device rooted in both ancient technology and modern survival practices. Here’s a breakdown of how it works, its components, and its use in survival fire-making:
What is a Fire Piston?
A fire piston is a small, cylindrical device typically made of wood, bone, metal, or plastic, consisting of a hollow tube (the cylinder) and a tightly fitting plunger (the piston). By rapidly compressing air inside the cylinder, the fire piston generates enough heat to ignite a small piece of tinder placed at the piston’s tip. The principle behind it is adiabatic compression, when air is compressed quickly, its temperature rises dramatically due to the lack of time for heat to dissipate. This can heat the air to 400–500°F (200–260°C), sufficient to ignite dry, combustible tinder.
Unless you are very skilled, you will not be able to make a “Fire Piston” in the field!
Components of a Fire Piston
- Cylinder: A hollow tube, sealed at one end, made of durable material like wood, bamboo, horn, or metal. It must withstand repeated pressure and maintain an airtight seal.
- Piston: A rod with a handle, fitted with a gasket (often an O-ring or greased cord) to ensure an airtight seal when inserted into the cylinder.
- Tinder Chamber: A small recess or cup at the end of the piston where tinder is placed.
- Tinder: Highly combustible material, such as char cloth, dried fungus (e.g., chaga or horse’s hoof fungus), cotton, or fine wood shavings, that ignites when exposed to the heat of compression.
How to Use a Fire Piston
- Prepare the Tinder:
- Select a small amount of dry, flammable tinder (e.g., char cloth or amadou fungus).
- Place it in the tinder chamber at the end of the piston.
- Lubricate the Piston:
- Apply a lubricant (like petroleum jelly or natural grease) to the gasket to ensure a smooth, airtight seal.
- Insert the Piston:
- Place the piston into the cylinder, ensuring a snug fit.
- Compress Rapidly:
- Push the piston down into the cylinder with a quick, forceful motion. This compresses the air inside, heating it to ignition temperatures.
- Check for Ember:
- Remove the piston and inspect the tinder. If successful, a glowing ember should be present.
- Transfer the Ember:
- Carefully move the ember to a tinder bundle (e.g., dry grass, bark, or leaves) and gently blow to coax it into a flame.
- Build the Fire:
- Use the flame to ignite kindling and build a fire as needed.
Challenges and Tips
- Learning Curve: Proper technique (e.g., rapid, forceful compression) takes practice to master.
- Tinder Quality: Success depends on dry, high-quality tinder. Char cloth or natural fungi like chaga work best.
- Seal Integrity: A worn or poorly lubricated gasket can prevent proper compression, so maintenance is key.
- Tip: Practice in a controlled environment before relying on it in a survival situation. Carry backup tinder in a waterproof container.
Modern Fire Pistons
- Available commercially from survival gear retailers, often made of aluminum or high-strength plastics.
- Some include built-in storage for tinder or spare gaskets.
Unless you are very skilled, you will not be able to make a “Fire Piston” in the field!
Other useful info.
- Fire Blowpipes & bellows
- Your Fire Tripod!
- General Tips
Blowpipes & Bellows
- Purpose: Increase oxygen flow to intensify a fire, especially during startup or when burning wet wood.
- Blowpipes: Hollow tubes made from almost any material used to direct a focused stream of air. Aim at the base of the fire, blowing steadily to feed flames.
- Bellows: Handheld or foot-operated devices that pump air into the fire. Effective for larger fires or forges.
- Pros/Cons: Blowpipes are lightweight and portable; bellows are bulkier but deliver more air.
- DIY: A straw or hollow reed can serve as an improvised blowpipe. An old “AM” car antenna works well also.
Your Fire Tripod!
- Design: Three sturdy green (living) or metal poles lashed together at the top to form a tripod, with a crossbar or chain to hang pots.
- Construction: Cut poles Approx. 2 Meters long. Lash using utility cordage. Set over the fire, ensuring stability.
- Use: Hang a pot or grill from the crossbar for cooking. Adjust height to control heat. Can also be used to support a tarp for shelter.
- Pros/Cons: Versatile and stable for cooking but requires setup time and materials. Metal tripods are durable but heavier.
- Tip: Use rocks to anchor legs if the ground is soft, and ensure the fire is centered beneath. I like to dig small holes to place the tripod legs into so they don’t get knocked over as easily.
General Tips
- Fire Structures: Use a teepee for quick ignition, a log cabin for steady burning, or a star fire for low maintenance overnight.
- Weather Considerations: In rain, build under a natural or tarp shelter. In wind, use a pit or windbreak to protect the flame.
- Practice: Master multiple ignition methods (e.g., flint and steel, magnifying glass) to ensure versatility in emergencies.
Don’t let the fire go out!
Mike
Now that you’ve read all that ….. You can watch the video!
Stay warm, stay safe, have a great day! Mike.